zaterdag 11 mei 2013

Risotto all’onda

All’onda means wavy, and it speaks to the perfect risotto soft and loose texture, so if you tilt the plate the risotto ripples in waves. This consistency is reached by following all the steps to a perfect Italian risotto (soffritto, tostatura, ingredients adding, resting- more about this to come!) but it is crowned by the mantecatura. Mantecare, from the Spanish word for butter, mantequilla, is the last step to a perfect risotto. After resting the risotto, cold butter cubes and cheese are added, and the risotto is beaten as fast as possible while shaking the pan to reach the perfect creamy, rich and emulsified texture that characterize a perfect risotto.

Risi e bisi

Risi e bisi (rice and peas) is a classic Venetian dish. In the past it was prepared only on the feast days decreed by the Doge (Venice's ruler), and though one can now prepare risi e bisi at any time, the dish really shines only when freshly harvested baby peas are available.

To make risi e bisi, begin by finely slicing an onion and sautéing it in oil and butter with finely minced lean pancetta or diced prosciutto. As soon as the onion turns golden add the rice (four handfuls for four people) and continue cooking, stirring constantly, until the rice turns translucent (3-5 minutes). Then add green pea broth a ladle at a time; make the broth before hand by cooking the shells of the peas in lightly salted water and then straining the liquid. When the rice is half done, add the peas (you'll want to shell 3 1/2 pounds (1.5 k) peas to have sufficient quantity), together with a handful of minced parsley. When the rice reaches the al dente stage, turn off the flame, stir in a chunk of unsalted butter the size of a walnut, and a couple of tablespoons of grated Parmigiano. If you like it, freshly ground white pepper too.
Mr. Coltro notes that risi e fasoi, rise made with freshly shelled beans by the farmers and mountain dwellers of the Treviso region, is equally tasty.
What he doesn't say is how much pancetta to use, nor how much onion, nor how much oil & butter to begin with. This is quite typical of Italian recipes even now -- the author expects one to have a sense of Italian proportions.
I'd figure:
  • A medium onion
  • About 2 ounces (50 g) pancetta
  • A scant pound (400 g, or 2 cups) short-grained rice
  • 1/3 cup each olive oil and unsalted butter
  • 3 1/2 pounds (1.5 k) unshelled peas (if you must, use half the weight frozen peas, and vegetable broth)
  • A small bunch parsley, minced
  • 1/2 cup fresly grated Parmigiano and more at table
If you want a richer risi, boil the pea pods in chicken broth rather than water. The risi should be all'onda, in other words moist and creamy, rather than firm
Risi e bisi is geen risotto eerder een hele dikke soep.

zondag 5 mei 2013

Gulai Kambing

Ingrediënten: 1 kg geitenvlees 5 el braadolie 2 kapulaga (doosvrucht) 3 cengkeh (kruidnagels) 4 cm kaju manis (kaneel) 2 cm gestampte langkuas 2 gestampte stengels sereh 3 salam bladeren 3 jeruk purut bladeren 1½ l dunne kokosmelk ½ l dikke kokosmelk Voor de fijngemaakte bumbu: 5 rode cabe 10 rode uien 5 sneetjes witte uien 5 kemiries 2 cm jahé 2 cm kunjit 2 el ketumbar ½ tl jintan 15 stuks merica (witte peper) ½ tl adas (venkel) Zout en bruine suiker Bereiding: Maak het vlees schoon en snijd het in blokjes. Laat de braadolie goed warm worden, gooi de bumbu erin en daarna kapulaga, cengkeh, kaju manis, langkuas, sereh, salam blad en jeruk purut blad. Doe er, zodra het lekker gaat ruiken, het vlees bij en roer alles stevig door. Voeg dan de dunne kokosmelk toe en laat alles even doorkoken tot het vlees goed zacht en gaar is. Voeg, als de kokosmelk droog is en het vlees nog niet zacht, wat water toe. Voeg, als het vlees al zacht genoeg is, de dikke kokosmelk toe. Houd het vuur klein en laat nog even door koken tot de kokosmelk wat olieachtig wordt.